Guides · Istanbul
Getting Around Istanbul by Ferry
The cheapest Bosphorus cruise is the commuter ferry. Routes, tickets and the best seats, from someone who rode them daily.
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A slow traveller's journal
Trip reports, practical city guides and photo essays from Europe and Asia.
Read the journalHi, I’m the person behind Fieldnotes. I travel slowly and mostly alone, and I write down what I wish I’d known before I went: which tram to take, where the quiet hour is, what a long journey actually feels like on day six.
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Latest from the journal
New trip reports, guides and photo essays, two to four a month.
Photo Essays · Kyoto
Kyoto Before Seven
Higashiyama’s lanes in the hour after dawn, when the city belongs to shopkeepers and street sweepers.
Trip Reports · Northern Vietnam
Ten Days in Northern Vietnam
Hanoi’s mornings, a night on Ha Long Bay and cycling Ninh Binh’s rice fields — ten days, one backpack, honest notes.
Guides · Lisbon
48 Hours in Lisbon, Slowly
Two unhurried days in Lisbon: tram 28 before the crowds, Alfama on foot, and the viewpoints worth the climb.
Destinations
Lisbon, Northern Vietnam, Kyoto and Istanbul — the places I keep returning to.
How I travel
Solo, slowly, on a mid-range budget. I stay at least a week in a city when I can, take public transport, and walk more than is reasonable.
Every trip is paid for by me. No sponsored stays, no affiliate links.
Planning a trip to one of these places?
Questions about a route, a ferry timetable or where to stay are always welcome.
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