Ten Days in Northern Vietnam

I gave Northern Vietnam ten days and one backpack. It wasn’t enough, but it was a good start. Here’s how the days actually went.

Days 1–3: Hanoi

I arrived jet-lagged into the Old Quarter at rush hour, which is either the best or worst introduction to the city. By day two I’d learned the rule: walk at a steady pace and the scooters flow around you. Mornings by Hoàn Kiếm Lake, when the tai chi groups are out, were my favourite hours.

Days 4–5: Ha Long Bay

I booked a single overnight boat rather than a day trip, and I’d do the same again. The day boats all leave at the same time and follow the same route; the overnight boats spread out, and by evening the karsts are yours. Lan Ha Bay, on the southern edge, was noticeably quieter.

Days 6–9: Ninh Binh

The surprise of the trip. I rented a bicycle for four euros a day and rode between limestone towers and rice paddies. The Tràng An boat ride is touristy but genuinely beautiful; go at 7:00 when it opens.

Day 10: back to Hanoi

One last bowl of bún chả and an early night before the flight.

What I’d change

• Fewer nights in Hanoi, one more in Ninh Binh.
• Book the overnight boat directly, not through a hostel desk — I paid about 20% extra.
• Bring a light rain jacket even in the dry season.